The Preservation Garden: Growing Food for Storage
You might see the title of this piece and think, I have a small space—this article couldn’t possibly be for me. But you'd be wrong. The preservation garden is for everyone. Whether you’re working with a sunny windowsill, a small patio, a raised bed, or a sprawling plot, there’s a way to grow with storage in mind.
And when your growing falls short—as it inevitably does some years—it’s more than reasonable to supplement by buying in bulk from local farms or markets throughout the season. I always end up buying some things for storage, I have never once grown everything I needed for the winter on my own. Doing a little at a time throughout the season can make it work even on limited budgets. The key is relationship: get to know your local farm stand or market growers. Not only are they more likely to sell you bulk quantities at a fair price, but they may also be willing to offer storage-friendly options like unwashed potatoes you can then cure—which last far longer than their washed uncured counterparts.
A view of our garden in North East Whatcom County, 2023
Herbs & Spices
One of my favorite ways to approach this is by growing as much as I can for my spice cabinet. Herbs and spices are one of the most accessible entry points into the world of growing for preservation. They thrive in nearly every kind of environment—window pots, patio planters, raised beds, open rows, and more. And they give back generously.
It may seem insignificant at first, but don’t underestimate the ripple effect of replacing store-bought herbs with your own homegrown stash. Think about how easily herbs grow, how many times you can plant them in a single season—or even year-round indoors with the right setup. Now think about the plastic clamshells you no longer have to buy, the delivery trucks that no longer need to bring them to your store, the trips you no longer need to make. These small actions add up. They carry weight—environmentally, emotionally, and economically.
Let’s start with herbs and spices you can grow for drying, preserving, and storing—where they thrive best, and how to fit them into whatever space you have. We’ve offered suggestions based on ideal growing environments, but nearly all of these can be grown in garden beds or rows if you have the space. It’s all about making the most of what you’ve got.
A woman tends her small garden beds in 1960
Windowsill / Indoor Pots
Great for apartments, small spaces, or year-round growing.
Basil – Loves warmth and sun. Use fresh, dry for short-term, or freeze as pesto or purée with olive oil and freeze.
Parsley – Grows well in partial sun. Can be dried, chopped or puréed and frozen in olive oil.
Chives – Tolerates lower light, grows excellent in large pots. Easy to snip and freeze, or dry.
Mint – Thrives in containers; spreads aggressively in-ground. Best dried or used fresh.
Thyme – Drought-tolerant and small-space friendly. Dries beautifully.
Oregano – Another Mediterranean herb that thrives in pots and dries well.
Cilantro or Coriander – Cooler weather herb, bolts fast. Best used fresh or frozen in purée. If let to go to seed you will have coriander, one of the easiest spices to grow.
Lemongrass – Can be grown in pots near bright windows. Stalks can be frozen whole or chopped, or dried. Lemongrass does become somewhat tough dried, so its best used as an infusion if dried.
Patio / Balcony Containers
Great for renters or anyone without a garden bed.
Sage – Hardy, drought-tolerant, perfect for drying and infusions.
Rosemary – Woody and fragrant; can overwinter indoors. Excellent dried or in oil infusions.
Lavender – Needs sun and well-drained soil. Dried flowers can be used culinarily and medicinally.
Bay Laurel (Bay leaf) – Slow-growing shrub, great in large pots. Leaves dry well or pick and store in the freezer from fresh.
Tarragon – Prefers containers and does best with morning sun. Use fresh or dried.
Shiso (Perilla) – Unique flavor, beautiful leaves, and grows well in pots. Dry or pickle.
Raised Beds / Garden Rows
Ideal for bigger yields and bulk drying.
Dill – Grows quickly, bolts easily. Use leaves fresh or dried, and collect seeds for spice.
Coriander (Cilantro seeds) – Harvest after flowering for coriander spice.
Fennel – Bulb, fronds, and seeds are all edible. Let go to seed for spice or dry the green fronds.
Caraway – Biennial; harvest seeds second year. Good for rye bread and pickling.
Anise Hyssop – Pollinator-friendly with licorice-like leaves and flowers. Dry for tea blends.
Chamomile – Flowers dry beautifully for tea. Self-sows in the garden.
Calendula – Not a spice but useful in herbal salves and teas. Dried petals store well.
Support and Flavoring Vegetables
While herbs and spices are often the first stop on the preservation garden path, there’s another category of plants that provide the backbone of flavor in both everyday cooking and long-term storage: the support vegetables. These are the aromatics and foundational elements—onions, garlic, peppers, and more—that deepen flavor in preserved sauces, stocks, salsas, pickles, and pantry staples. They're incredibly versatile, relatively easy to grow, and can be preserved in multiple ways.
Even better, many of these can be grown in raised beds, patio containers, deep grow bags, or open rows depending on the space you have. Their harvests are generous, and their preservation options are wide-ranging.
It’s taken me a long time to grow decent onions—I'm not sure why they gave me such a hard time. But I was pretty happy with this harvest, and this year’s crop looks even better. Onions from our 2023 garden.
Onions (All Kinds)
Growing Tips: Prefer full sun and loose soil. Can be grown in deep raised beds or rows; green onions also do well in pots.
Preservation Methods:
Cure and store whole for months in a cool, dark place. Works with yellow, sweet, white, and red varieties.
Chop and dehydrate for shelf-stable flakes or powder.
Blanch and freeze chopped for meal prep, soups, and sauces.
Garlic
Growing Tips: Plant in fall and harvest in summer. Grows well in beds or large containers.
Preservation Methods:
Cure and store whole bulbs.
Peel and freeze whole, chopped, or puréed in oil.
Important: Do not store chopped garlic in oil at room temperature or in the fridge—this creates a risk for botulism. Always keep garlic-in-oil mixtures frozen unless they are acidified according to a tested recipe.Dehydrate and grind into garlic powder.
Ferment in honey or vinegar.
Peppers (Sweet & Hot Varieties)
Growing Tips: Thrive in pots, raised beds, or rows with warmth and regular water.
Preservation Methods:
Hot peppers (cayenne, paprika, etc.) can be dried and powdered, many pepper varieties are spice cabinet staples .
Sweet and hot peppers freeze beautifully whole—no blanching needed.
Roast, peel, and freeze for sauces.
Ferment into hot sauce or pepper mash.
Celery
Growing Tips: Needs consistent moisture and cooler temps. Grows well in raised beds or deep containers.
Preservation Methods:
Chop and dehydrate for soup mixes or powder.
Blanch and freeze chopped pieces.
Store whole in a semi-breathable bag in the fridge for up to 3 months with regular trimming and misting.
Leeks
Growing Tips: Cold-hardy and slow-growing; best in beds or rows with loose, fertile soil.
Preservation Methods:
Cold store whole in the fridge for 1–2 months.
Chop and dehydrate for long-term use.
Chop, sautee, then freeze for double-duty flavor boosts.
Shallots
Growing Tips: Grow similarly to garlic, in beds or deep containers.
Preservation Methods:
Cure and store whole in a cool, dark place for several months.
Slice and dehydrate for crisps, powder, or cooking use.
Freeze diced shallots raw or after sautéing.
Carrots
Growing Tips: Prefer deep, loose soil in beds, grow bags, or tall containers.
Preservation Methods:
Store fresh in damp sand, sawdust, or breathable bags in cold storage for 4–6 months.
Dehydrate slices, shreds, or coins for snacks and soup mixes.
Blanch and freeze chopped or shredded.
Pressure can as-is (no acidification needed), or water bath can when pickled.
Ferment or pickle for a tangy twist.
Roots and Produce for Cold Storage and Cellaring
There are a ton of foods that store well “as-is” with very little intervention beyond proper harvesting, curing, and cool, dark storage. These humble workhorses often get overlooked, but they’re among my very favorite crops to grow. You’re telling me I can harvest these, tend them properly, and enjoy them months (sometimes a year or more!) later? That’s magic. I’m in.
You don’t need a full root cellar to make this work—just a cool area with good air circulation and the right humidity can go a long way. And nowadays, it’s easy to find inexpensive digital humidity and temperature sensors that take the guesswork out of cellaring, no matter the space you're working with. Whether you're tucking things into a garage corner or outfitting a full cellar, this list can scale up or down with you.
What is curing?
Curing is the process of allowing certain vegetables (like potatoes, onions, garlic, and winter squash) to sit in warm, dry, dark, well-ventilated conditions for a period of time after harvest. This toughens their skins, heals minor damage, and helps extend shelf life during storage. Exposure to light—especially for potatoes—can cause sprouting or greening, so darkness is key.
And one final note: check your stored goods every 1–2 weeks. One bad apple really can spoil the bunch—literally. Remove anything soft, sprouting, or molding to keep your stash in good condition.
Women leaving the greenhouse, arms full. 1950s.
Potatoes
Cure: 7–10 days in a dark, 60–65°F area with good airflow. DO NOT WASH prior to curing, potatoes must be left dirty.
Store: 38–40°F with moderate humidity, in paper bags or crates.
Shelf Life: 4–9 months depending on variety.
Tips: Keep away from onions and sunlight; check for sprouts or soft spots.
Onions
Cure: 2–4 weeks in warm, dry, ventilated space until necks are dry and papery.
Store: 32–40°F in a mesh bag or crate with airflow.
Shelf Life: 3–9 months.
Note: Already listed in an earlier section, but included here for storage reference.
Carrots
Store: In damp sand, sawdust, or a breathable container in high humidity (90–95%) at 32–40°F.
Shelf Life: 4–6 months.
Tip: Trim tops before storage, but don’t wash until ready to use.
Additional Options: Pressure can as-is (no acidification needed), or water bath can when pickled.
Turnips
Store: In damp sand or sawdust in a high-humidity environment at 32–40°F.
Shelf Life: 4–5 months.
Tip: Remove tops and keep unwashed until use.
Rutabaga
Store: Similar to turnips—high humidity, cool temps.
Shelf Life: 4–6 months.
Tip: Sweeter after a few frosts; don’t store near ethylene-producing fruits like apples.
Storage Radish Varieties (e.g., Daikon, Watermelon Radish, Black Spanish)
Store: In plastic bags or bins of damp sand in a root cellar or fridge at 32–40°F.
Shelf Life: 3–4 months.
Tip: Remove tops; keep moist but not soggy.
Beets
Store: In damp sawdust or sand, or perforated bags in fridge/root cellar at 32–40°F.
Shelf Life: 4–5 months.
Tip: Don’t trim roots too closely—can cause bleeding and faster spoilage.
Apples
Store: Separately from vegetables (they release ethylene gas). Keep at 30–35°F with 90% humidity.
Shelf Life: 2–6 months, depending on variety (late-season apples like Fuji or Winesap last longest).
Tip: Wrap individually in paper for longest storage; check often.
Pears
Store: At 29–31°F with high humidity. Most varieties do not ripen fully on the tree and need to finish ripening at room temperature after storage.
Shelf Life: 2–4 months.
Best Varieties for Storage:
Bosc – firm, dense flesh; stores up to 4 months.
Anjou – very reliable keeper; stores 3–4 months.
Comice – sweet and delicate; stores 2–3 months if handled gently.
Tip: Store pears slightly underripe. Plan ahead and pull what you’d like to eat a few days to a week before enjoying, allowing them to soften and sweeten on the counter.
Pumpkins
Cure: 10–14 days at 80–85°F with good airflow.
Store: 50–55°F in a single layer with air circulation.
Shelf Life: 3–6 months.
Tip: Check regularly for soft spots or mold, and don’t stack.
Winter Squashes (Butternut, Acorn, Kabocha, Hubbard, etc.)
Cure: 10–14 days in a warm, dry, dark spot with good ventilation (note: acorn squash does not require curing).
Store: 50–55°F, low humidity, with airflow.
Shelf Life:
Acorn: 1–3 months
Butternut: 3–6 months
Kabocha: 4–9 months
Hubbard: 4–12 months on average, and under ideal conditions, some varieties can store up to 18 months.
Tip: Handle gently—bruising shortens shelf life. Store unstacked with good air circulation.
Perennial Fruits
Perennials—plants you only have to plant once and then maintain—are a powerful part of any garden or growing system. Fortunately, many fruits in this category store beautifully, whether you're cold storing them fresh, freezing, canning, drying, fermenting, or turning them into preserves.
If you don’t have space for fruit trees or berry bushes of your own, don’t count yourself out. It's not hard to find a neighbor with an overgrown apple or plum tree they aren’t harvesting. Start a relationship, ask if you can help collect fallen fruit in exchange for permission to harvest some from the tree—it often leads to ongoing arrangements. In places like the Pacific Northwest, berries grow freely and abundantly. Himalayan blackberries, for example, are invasive, and picking the fruit actually helps manage their spread. Native berries and wild-growing fruits should be foraged mindfully and in moderation—but they’re still out there, often in surprising abundance.
Apples
Cold Storage: 30–35°F with high humidity.
Best Varieties: Fuji, Arkansas Black, Northern Spy, Winesap, GoldRush
Canned: Sauces, pie fillings, slices in syrup or juice.
Best Varieties: Golden Delicious, McIntosh, Cortland
Frozen: Slices, sauce, juice, cider.
Dried: Rings, chips, fruit leather.
Best Varieties: Honeycrisp, Empire, Pink Lady
Fermented: Hard cider, apple vinegar, shrubs, fermented apple rings.
Preserved: Butters, jellies, chutneys.
Pears
Cold Storage: 29–34°F with high humidity. Most varieties do not ripen fully on the tree and need to finish ripening at room temperature after storage.
Best Varieties: Anjou, Bosc, Comice
Shelf Life: 2–4 months
Tip: Store underripe and pull what you plan to eat a few days to a week ahead to ripen on the counter.
Canned: Halves, slices, jams, pie filling.
Best Varieties: Bartlett, Anjou
Frozen: Purée or slices (blanched).
Dried: Thin slices or small cubes.
Fermented: Perry (pear cider), vinegar, lacto-fermented slices.
Preserved: Pear butter, spiced jam, chutney.
Plums
Cold Storage: Up to 1 month at 31–34°F.
Best Varieties: Italian prune plums
Canned: Whole, halves, or sauces.
Frozen: Halved and pitted.
Dried: Excellent for making prunes.
Fermented: Plum wine, umeboshi-style ferments, vinegar.
Preserved: Plum jam, fruit leather, chutneys.
Cherries
Cold Storage: 30–34°F, high humidity (1–2 weeks).
Best Varieties: Tart (Montmorency) for preserving
Canned: Pie filling, whole in syrup.
Frozen: Pitted whole cherries.
Dried: Pitted and halved.
Fermented: Cherry mead, vinegar, shrubs.
Preserved: Cherry jam, preserves, compote.
Peaches & Nectarines
Cold Storage: 31–34°F, short-term (1–2 weeks).
Best Varieties: Elberta, Redhaven
Canned: Halves, slices, pie filling, compotes.
Frozen: Sliced or puréed.
Dried: Thin slices or fruit leather.
Fermented: Peach vinegar, wine, lacto peach slices.
Preserved: Peach butter, jam, chutney.
Apricots
Cold Storage: 31–34°F, short-term.
Best Varieties: Tilton, Goldrich
Canned: Halves or in syrup.
Frozen: Halved, puréed.
Dried: Classic use—whole or halved.
Fermented: Apricot wine, shrub.
Preserved: Apricot jam, butter, fruit leather.
Quince
Cold Storage: 32–35°F, up to 2–3 months.
Best Varieties: Smyrna, Pineapple
Canned: Slices in syrup, preserves.
Frozen: Cooked purée or poached slices.
Dried: For tea blends or snacking.
Preserved: Quince paste (membrillo), jelly.
Grapes
Cold Storage: 30–35°F, up to 2 months.
Best Varieties: Concord, Reliance, Mars
Frozen: Whole or juiced.
Dried: Raisins (Thompson Seedless, Flame).
Fermented: Wine, vinegar, shrubs.
Preserved: Grape jelly, juice, fruit leather.
Raspberries, Blackberries, and Other Cane Berries
Cold Storage: 33°F, very short-term (3–7 days).
Frozen: Flash freeze on trays, then bag.
Dried: Whole or puréed into leather.
Fermented: Berry meads, shrubs, vinegars.
Preserved: Jams, jellies, seedless purées.
Blueberries
Cold Storage: 34°F, 1–2 weeks.
Best Varieties: Duke, Patriot (Northern highbush)
Frozen: Whole, no prep needed.
Dried: Whole or as leathers.
Fermented: Blueberry wine, vinegar.
Preserved: Jam, syrup, conserves.
Currants (Red, Black, White)
Cold Storage: 35°F, up to 2 weeks.
Best Varieties: Red Lake (red), Consort (black), Primus (white)
Frozen: Whole or juiced.
Dried: Tart and flavorful; great for baking.
Fermented: Cassis (black currant liqueur), wine, vinegar.
Preserved: Jelly, syrup, sauce, compote.
Elderberries (Cook Before Consuming)
Cold Storage: Not recommended; spoil quickly.
Frozen: Stemmed berries or juice.
Dried: For teas, syrups, tinctures.
Fermented: Wine, oxymel, shrub.
Preserved: Elderberry syrup, jelly, cordials.
Produce for Canning & Pickling
Last but certainly not least—and of course, my favorite section—the canning garden. There is an incredible range of food we can grow with canning in mind. This area often calls for a bit more quantity than others, but keep in mind that jars go all the way down to 4 oz. Small-batch preserving is absolutely possible, and often just as satisfying.
Every year, my rows are full of crops I’ve envisioned from the start to be canned, pickled, or preserved in brine. The peak of summer is rich with the smell of tomato plants, cucumber vines, bean flowers, and pea tendrils. Sometimes, it’s best to focus our energy and space on one really great row of tomatoes or beans. Other years, I go minimal across the board—less herbs, fewer potted plants, pared-down fruit—and instead grow four or five big rows dedicated to canning staples.
And of course, if growing it all isn’t realistic, buying in bulk from local farmers is a fantastic option. Many are thrilled to sell whole cases of produce to the right folks—especially if you’re willing to come back year after year. The beautiful thing is, most of these crops can also be refrigerated or frozen short-term if you aren’t ready to can the moment they’re ripe. However you approach it, don’t sleep on the canning garden—it’s one of the most satisfying ways to preserve the peak of your season.
Below is a list of common crops grown for canning or pickling, along with storage tips and preservation ideas for each.
A bunch of Rowan County Rambling Hog Heart tomatoes from our garden in 2023.
Canning & Pickling Garden Crop List
Tomatoes
Canning: Yes – whole, crushed, diced, sauce, paste, juice, soup base.
Best Varieties: Amish Paste, San Marzano, Roma, Opalka
Freezing: Yes – whole, peeled, or puréed (great for sauces later).
Pickling: Not traditional, but green tomatoes can be pickled or made into relish.
Cucumbers
Canning: Yes – best when pickled. Water bath canning required for acidified recipes.
Best Varieties: Boston Pickling, National Pickling, H-19 Little Leaf
Freezing: Not recommended (high water content = mushy texture).
Pickling: Yes – slices, spears, whole, relish. Fermented or vinegar-based.
Green Beans
Canning: Yes – must be pressure canned unless pickled.
Best Varieties: Provider, Blue Lake, Jade
Freezing: Yes – blanch first.
Pickling: Yes – Dilly beans (vinegar-based), fermented green beans.
Peas (Shelling and Snap)
Canning: Shelling peas must be pressure canned.
Freezing: Yes – blanch first. Maintains sweetness and texture.
Pickling: Snap peas can be pickled fresh or fermented.
Corn
Canning: Yes – pressure can as kernels, creamed corn, or corn relish.
Best Varieties: Golden Bantam, Honey Select, Peaches & Cream
Freezing: Yes – raw or blanched kernels, or whole cobs.
Pickling: Yes – in relishes, salsas, and chowchow-style preserves.
Carrots
Canning: Yes – pressure can raw or hot pack.
Freezing: Yes – blanch before freezing.
Pickling: Yes – great as vinegar pickles, lacto-pickles, or fermented sticks.
Beets
Canning: Yes – pressure canned plain, or water bath canned when pickled.
Freezing: Yes – roasted or steamed first, then sliced or diced.
Pickling: Yes – classic vinegar pickles or fermented.
Peppers (Sweet & Hot)
Canning: Yes – hot or pressure can plain; safe in water bath only when pickled or acidified.
Best Varieties: Jalapeño, Hungarian Wax, Sweet Banana, California Wonder
Freezing: Yes – raw or roasted, whole or chopped.
Pickling: Yes – rings, strips, whole; fermented hot sauce or relishes.
Onions
Canning: Yes – in relishes, jams, or pickled. Not safe for pressure canning alone due to texture.
Freezing: Yes – chopped raw or sautéed.
Pickling: Yes – classic vinegar pickles or fermented red onions.
Garlic
Canning: Only in tested, acidified recipes (garlic jam, vinegar pickles). Never plain.
Freezing: Yes – whole cloves, chopped, or puréed in oil (frozen only).
Pickling: Yes – in vinegar (e.g., dilly garlic), honey ferments, black garlic (fermented, not pickled).
Zucchini & Summer Squash
Canning: Not recommended plain (texture suffers), but safe in tested relishes or combined salsas.
Freezing: Yes – grated or sliced, blanched or raw.
Pickling: Yes – in relish, sweet pickle slices, or fermented rounds.
Okra
Canning: Yes – pressure canned or water bath when pickled.
Freezing: Yes – whole or sliced, blanched.
Pickling: Yes – spicy pickled okra is a favorite; also ferments well.
Cabbage
Canning: Only in tested recipes (slaws, relishes). Not safe to can plain.
Freezing: Yes – blanched leaves or wedges.
Pickling: Yes – fermented (sauerkraut, kimchi) or quick-pickled slaws.
Cauliflower
Canning: Only in tested, acidified recipes (e.g., giardiniera, pickled mixes).
Freezing: Yes – blanched florets.
Pickling: Yes – vinegar-based mixes or fermented with spices.
Eggplant
Canning: Only in tested recipes (e.g., baba ganoush); not recommended plain.
Freezing: Yes – roasted or cooked purée.
Pickling: Yes – in oil or vinegar-based recipes (must be acidified).
Woman standing with a variety of canned goods, 1931
Preservation Glossary
Pressure Canning
A method of preserving low-acid foods (like non-pickled vegetables, meats, and stocks) using a pressure canner to reach temperatures above boiling (240–250°F), which is necessary to destroy Clostridium botulinum spores. Required for canning most vegetables and all non-acidified foods safely.
Water Bath Canning
A method used for high-acid foods (like jams, pickles, and fruits) where jars are submerged in boiling water (212°F) for a specific time. Safe only when acidity is high enough to prevent botulism growth.
Curing
A post-harvest process for crops like garlic, onions, potatoes, and winter squash where produce is left in warm, dry, dark, and well-ventilated conditions to allow skins to harden and small wounds to heal. This significantly extends shelf life in storage.
Cold Storage / Cellaring
Storing produce in a cool, dark, and often humid environment (like a root cellar, unheated garage, or cold room) to extend shelf life naturally. Conditions vary by crop, but many roots, apples, and squash store this way for months.
Fermentation
A preservation method that relies on beneficial microbes to convert sugars into acids (lactic acid in vegetables, alcohol in fruits). Common for sauerkraut, kimchi, fermented pickles, hot sauce, vinegar, and fruit wines.
Dehydrating
The process of removing moisture from food using airflow and low heat, often with a dehydrator, oven, or in some cases, sun drying. Used for fruits, vegetables, herbs, jerky, and shelf-stable snacks.
Freezing
A preservation method where produce is kept at 0°F or lower to slow down enzyme activity and bacterial growth. Many vegetables must be blanched before freezing to preserve texture, color, and flavor.
Pickling
Preserving foods in an acidic solution, usually vinegar-based, sometimes with sugar and spices. Can be processed for shelf stability using water bath canning or stored in the fridge. Includes quick pickles and fermented pickles.
Small-Batch Canning
Canning in quantities as little as one jar to a few pints at a time. Especially useful for small harvests, experimental recipes, or specialty ingredients.
Blanching
Briefly boiling or steaming vegetables before freezing or dehydrating to stop enzyme activity that would otherwise lead to spoilage or off-flavors. Followed by rapid cooling in ice water.
Shelf-Stable
Refers to foods that can be stored safely at room temperature without refrigeration or freezing, usually achieved through proper canning, dehydration, or curing.
Recommended Resources
Whether you're water bath canning, pressure canning, fermenting, or drying your harvest, having the right resources makes all the difference. Home canning—especially pressure canning—requires strict adherence to tested, science-based recipes to ensure food safety. Methods like dehydrating, fermenting, and cold pickling are generally much more forgiving and allow for a little more creativity and experimentation. Below are trusted, accessible sources to help you get started—or deepen your skills—as you grow your preservation garden.
National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP)
• The gold standard for science-based home canning and preservation
• Recipes, step-by-step guides, and safety info for all methods
• nchfp.uga.edu
USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning
• Free, downloadable manual regularly updated with tested recipes
• Covers both water bath and pressure canning
• nchfp.uga.edu/publications/publications_usda.html
New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service
• Region-specific guidance for New Mexico growers and preservers
• Offers downloadable publications, hotline support, and workshops
• aces.nmsu.edu
Other Land-Grant University Extension Services
• Excellent regional resources and classes
• Examples include:
– Washington State Extension
– Penn State Extension
– University of Wisconsin Extension
• Search: "[Your State] Extension food preservation" for local info
Ball® Preserving Resources
• Includes the Blue Book Guide to Preserving, Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving, and their online database of tested recipes
• A widely trusted brand in home canning with beginner-friendly instructions and up-to-date safety guidelines
• freshpreserving.com