Burnt Sugar Brined Quince
This brine is one of my signatures, one that clients and customers have coveted for years. While I use it for a variety of pickles, quince really steals the show here. Burnt sugar, warm winter spices, and the floral apple aroma are a combination made in preservation heaven.
For some with a tree, quince is an abundant annual crop, and these folks come to me every year looking for a new way to preserve their bounty. For others, you may have never even heard of a quince, let alone seen or tasted one. If you haven’t, and can get your hands on them, I wholeheartedly invite you to try this recipe as is. Co-op grocers, local orchards, and farmers markets are a great place to seek them out this time of year. If you can’t find quince, slightly under ripe pears or a cooking apple variety like Granny Smith make a very suitable substitute in this recipe.
Quince are a curious fruit. They look like lumpy golden apples, but their raw flesh is tough, astringent, and full of pectin, which means they absolutely must be cooked. Once they are, they transform completely. The flavor is somewhere between apple and pear with subtle tropical, pineapple like, and floral notes. Their firm texture softens into something lush and velvety, and their natural pectin gives preserves a beautiful, spoonable body that is unlike anything else.
The gorgeous quince of Jess Gring, Odd Flowers
Burnt Sugar Brined Quince
Ingredients:
2 large or 4 cups peeled, seeded, and cut quince, sub apple or slightly under-ripe pear if no quince
½ cup cane sugar, for burning
1 cup cider vinegar
1½ cups water
1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon chili flake (optional, omit if you prefer no heat)
1 teaspoon mustard seed
¼ teaspoon coriander seed
3 cloves
3 allspice berries
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 teaspoons sea salt
½ cup raw cane sugar (not burned)
1 bay leaf
1 pinch ground cardamom
Equipment:
1 medium saucepan
1 quart (32 ounce) canning jar
Canning funnel (optional, makes pouring easier)
1 large metal or wooden spoon
Yields: 1 quart of pickles
Total time: About 20 minutes
Method:
1. Place a saucepan over medium heat and allow it to preheat for about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the first ½ cup of cane sugar to the pan. There may be a quick burst of smoke, but as long as the sugar does not turn black immediately, you are on track. You are looking for a deep amber color, not dark brown or black.
2. While the sugar melts and caramelizes, peel the quince. Cut them into quarters, remove the cores and seeds just as you would with an apple, and cut into bite sized chunks. If you cannot find quince, slightly under-ripe pear or a cooking apple such as Granny Smith makes a wonderful substitute. Stir the sugar occasionally as it cooks to keep the color even.
3. Just before the sugar reaches a deep amber color, add all of the spices except the bay leaf and cardamom. Stir to quickly toast them in the hot sugar for a few seconds.
4. Carefully add the cider vinegar and water. The mixture will bubble up vigorously. Stir until the sugar dissolves fully into the brine, then add the sea salt and remaining ½ cup of raw cane sugar.
5. Once the sugar is melted, add the bay leaf, a pinch of ground cardamom, and the prepared quince. Bring the mixture back to a rolling simmer and cook for about 5 minutes, until the quince are just tender but not soft or falling apart.
6. Using a canning funnel, pack the quince and spices into a sanitized quart jar. Pour the hot brine over the top to cover. If there is extra brine, save it for another small batch or a quick pickle.
7. Allow the jar to cool before securing the lid. These pickles will keep in the refrigerator for up to one year if you use a clean utensil each time you serve them.
Serving and Pairing Ideas
These pickled quince are beautifully versatile. Their sweet-tart balance and warm spice make them just as welcome on a cheese board as they are beside a roast.
They shine with soft, creamy cheeses like brie or fresh goat cheese, but also pair beautifully with sharper or aged varieties such as manchego, mimolette, cheddar, or gouda. They are an excellent companion to cured meats, making them a standout addition to any charcuterie or cheese board.
Anywhere you would use cranberry sauce, these belong too. They are lovely served alongside roast turkey, ham, or pork loin, and make a wonderful glaze for roasted vegetables. You can also spoon them over grilled chicken or fold them into pan sauces for a touch of sweetness and depth.
They are especially good finely chopped and mixed into Dijon or whole-grain mustard to make a quick sandwich spread for a grilled ham and cheese. The caramelized spice from the brine plays perfectly against the salt and fat of the meat and cheese.
For something unexpected, try them as a chutney with curry, or finely chop and mix into yogurt for a bright, spiced condiment. A little of the brine stirred into a cocktail or shrub also brings a subtle caramelized spice note that is completely unique.